Athens and the Acropolis

Athens and The Acropolis

4 January 2013

I awoke early so I could hit the Acropolis before the crowds.  Surprisingly, all the historical sites seem to be open from 8-3, much earlier than most other cities in the world.  I'm pleased, especially given that by nature I tend to be an early riser.

One thing that was bittersweet:  Numerous stray dogs.  I'd heard of these, and it was amazing to see so many with tags (not sure what it indicated, maybe vaccinations).  They were friendly, fat and happy, yet they were on the streets by themselves, without family.

The Acropolis itself was a bit disappointing given that it is in very poor shape and most of the carving (metopes, frieze and pediment sculptures) have all been moved, either to the British Museum or the New Acropolis Museum at the base of the hill.  Also, much renovation work was going on, so between the scaffolding, the hoists and the work buildings they have set up, the site really does not present itself well at this time.  I won't call it a major disappointment, but it was not what I expected, and a bit underwhelming, especially given that I had heard so much about this, starting in my high school days.

I normally don't take to museums, but I decided to give the New Acropolis Museum a try, and it more than made up for my disappointment with the Acropolis per se.  To call the New Acropolis a “museum” is unfair, as it is one of the most beautiful monuments to another monument I have ever seen.  Very new, it is built over an archaeological site (with a glass floor so you can peer down at it!).  The highlight is the top floor where they have resurrected the Parthenon frieze, pediment sculptures and metopes.  Many are original and can be identified by the dark color of the stone; those that are not here and are instead located elsewhere (British Museum, Palermo, New York, Vatican) have been "proxied" withwhite plaster copies.  (This is great, in that you can tell the originals from the copies just by the color!)  They have these arranged and embedded between steel columns, 8x17, just as in the Parthenon itself.

There is an old debate about the Elgin Marbles and whether they should be returned from the British Museum to Athens.  I've been on the verge of saying leave them in Britain, but after seeing how Greece treats their relics, their love for them and the Parthenon in particular, I say bring them back:  Athens presents it even more beautifully than does the British Museum.  I'll also note that in the video they show describing the situation, the New Acropolis Museum is none too subtle, labeling Elgin as “looting and stealing” the originals.

There's even a nice Reading Room, something you generally don't find in many museums.

I walked to Zeus Temple across the street from my hotel, then I got back on the HOHO bus, which I rode to an open market—Very beautiful.  From there, I walked to Monostiraki Square, and it was incredibly fun and festive.  Just as yesterday, I don’t know how they can do this during what it supposed to be a work afternoon, but it was fantastic to see the joy of the Athenians.

I stopped by Hadrian’s Library, which was rather old and decrepit.

I had a gyro and loved it!!  The food here is more than making up for what I had to eat in the Middle East, and the Ouzo is fantastic!

Smoking is very common in Athens, even indoors.  It doesn't bother me as much as it does others, but still it was quite noticeable and surprising.

The bars don’t cut the drunks off!!  There was one guy in particular who was totally plastered, and the bartender tried to cut him off, but the drunk forced the barkeep to give him one more.  In the US, the cops would have been called to haul the guy off.

Greece reminds me a great deal of Italy, and I see a lot of comparisons between the two.  Many of my friends would chide me for saying this, but it's like saying the US and Canada are alike:  As much as both parties hate to hear it, it is true.

I am told that the reason so many people are out and about is unofficial holiday time, whatever that means!