Sunday, August 10, 2008

Calibration Check and the Reeperbahn

I'm about halfway through the vacation, and in reading what I have posted thus far, I probably sound as if I am bashing anything US-based and praising anything Euro-related. I admit that is definitely the tone, and I am somewhat remiss for this. Europeans have many ideas and concepts which resonate with me, concepts which I feel we in the US could learn and adopt, yet at the same time they certainly have their own foibles as well, and I am seeing those here in Germany. I've spent a great deal of time lauding the European openness and freedom, but I need to hit on more of a balance.

Last night (a Saturday night nonetheless), I strolled around the Reeperbahn from early evening until about 2:00 AM, and what I saw was really shocking. For those of you who are unaware, the Reeperbahn is an infamous redlight district in Hamburg, with prostitutes seated in display windows as well as standing on the street over a multi-block area. In addition to the prevalence of prostitution, the clubs were packed, music was blaring all about, and even when I left at 2:00 AM it was almost impossible to move through all the people. It had a strong feeling of decadence, somewhere between a New Year's Eve party and outright debauchery. I had very mixed feelings about this, and I can easily view it from either perspective.

From the notion of freedom, I certainly support the idea that consenting adults should be allowed to do what they like as long as they do not inflict themselves on unwilling bystanders. To that end, the Reeperbahn is in a very discrete, well-defined part of town, so those who go there do so knowingly. Prostitution is not spread about the town, and the atmosphere is one of raucus behavior, partying, drinking, and promiscuity for those so inclined. If you don't like it, the area is very well-known and easy to avoid, so steer clear of it. Looking at it that way, I see it as a chosen way of life.

When I awoke this morning and walked back through the area at about 9:00 AM, cleaning crews were busy sweeping the litter and broken bottles. Many of the bars were still open, a couple of prostitutes were still in the windows, and a few stragglers were walking along with a bottle of beer in hand. This was the most depressing part of it, the image of lost souls who are unable to find any comfort or solace in the debauchery, still clinging into the early dawn hours to the pain-killing numbness of the night just ended.

My own bias and prejudice will show here, but the way the Reeperbahn is set up seems very depressing, especially for those trapped in it. Certainly, for the person who comes once in a blue moon to look, to gawk, it is not a trap, but for those who live this as a way of life, for those still wandering the street the next morning unsatisfied, it is a very tawdry event.

Comparing this to Therme Erding, I feel the Europeans have it right with the sauna oasis, but I have to admit a certain level of disgust with the Reeperbahn, in spite of my libertarian beliefs. Therme Erding was natural, comfortable, and I'd even go so far as to say respectful of the human body. The Reeperbahn is purely exploitation: Prostitutes exploiting men who have no sexual outlet, and men (essentially pimps) exploiting the prostitutes. It was kind of a dregs of the dregs of society.

I'll be consistent and continue to stress the idea that freedom of choice is paramount, so as such I would support the Reeperbahn in principle, though I have to say in my heart it feels like a soulless exploitation of one person against another. Prostitution, which I firmly feel should be legalized, can be handled with more dignity than what I saw last night in Hamburg.

So no, I don't think Europe always gets it right, though I will support their right to get it wrong.

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